foodwinesex. Hot and muggy. Occasional breeze. Recalibrating my sweating point. Sunday. Everything is closed on Sunday like when I was a kid. Catholic country. Recalibrating my expectations, but hold on...not so fast. Just walking around, this looks like a prosperous, stylish city. Very cosmopolitan. Restaurants are everywhere. People are crowding sidewalk cafes with a glass of San Miguel or a rioja and perhaps a bocadillo. The pace is quick but perhaps not as fast as San Francisco. Could be the weather or could be the internal clocks run on a different crystal. Could also be that the days are much longer. I'm getting on their speed quickly. My internal clock needs recalibrating and nothing like food, wine and sex to help get it there. Part of the whole clock thing is the schedule of life here. Dinner rarely starts before 10 PM and the streets are more crowded at 2 AM than at 11 PM.
We slept late, woke up and decided to walk over to the Museu Picasso. The day was the type of day you don't want to fight cause its gonna beat you every time. Hot and muggy. We took our time walking and passed under the Arc de Triomf. The boulevard it crowned was filled with men playing bocce and board games, families cavorting, kids with soccer balls practicing their footwork and people walking dogs. Lots of dogs in this city. We found our pace and wound up in the Old City section of town.
The first Sunday of every month means free admission at the Meseu Picasso and given the length of the queue in front of the place people took advantage of the subsidy vigorously. This reminded me of my trip to NY a few weeks ago with MOMA entry underwritten on Friday evenings by Target. I must be lucky. No matter, the line moved quickly and we were inside the museum within fifteen minutes. The museum itself was a string of small medieval mansions made into a common building. It was beautifully done. As we entered, I wasn't sure what I was seeing at first. Fine draftsmanship signed by Pablo Ruiz. It started coming back quickly. Picasso was Pablo Ruiz Picasso and his earliest works, the stuff he did before becoming serious about art, was signed Pablo Ruiz. Some of this was done as he was spending time near the art school where his father taught...it was in the blood. This was his earliest work and they had a lot of it. Wow. I've seen many Picasso exhibitions and have visited the Musée Picasso in Paris but have never seen anything like this. This was the missing link that drew the evolution to the Picasso that began amazing Paris (Blue Period, Rose Period) in the early twentieth century.
The crowd was all over the place. Some were art students. Others were tourists who wanted to check off a box in their "things to do" list. Others were there to meet people and yet others were locals who just wanted a free ticket to see the work of a native son. Despite the heat, long line to get in and a somewhat indifferent audience, this was a great show to see for anybody who appreciates the work of Picasso. Highly recommended.
On the walk back to our hotel, ChP and I stopped and had a glass of wine in a plaza. We made peace with the heat and humidity and then had a second glass of wine. Ahhhh...this is how the locals cope with a hot, muggy weekend. This works fine. When we got back to the hotel we realized that to go out to one of the better restaurants you definitely need reservations. On top of that, most major restaurants are closed on Sunday. We ended up skipping dinner but went out late looking for a cocktail. We wound up at a small club that was half filled and was notable for an area of the place that had sofas hanging from the ceiling. Couples sat and swung back and forth slowly. After two attempts we realized we were not gonna get a martini here. As it turned out, we were not going to get a martini anywhere in Barcelona. Vodka and ice in a glass was as close as it was gonna get so fine...we can deal. Besides, everything was back open tomorrow and the whole city was ours to discover.
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